A refrigerator that hums, clicks, gurgles or pops is almost always a refrigerator doing its job. GE, Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Bosch, Liebherr, Sub-Zero and Fisher & Paykel each publish a list of normal fridge sounds, and the lists largely agree: humming, clicking, gurgling, cracking, a sizzle during defrost and the buzz and clatter of the ice maker. The sounds they send you to a technician for are fewer: a fan striking ice or something else, a compressor that rattles or drills, a noise that is new or keeps getting louder, and anything that comes with warm food or a burning smell.
Every explanation below is quoted from the makers' own support pages and owner's manuals, with the conditions each one attaches. Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid publish one identical list on their three support sites, so we quote it once, as Whirlpool's. Where the makers disagree, or say nothing, we point it out.
Why a working fridge is never silent
Samsung puts it plainly: "A refrigerator is never completely quiet, even when it's new." Whirlpool says its refrigerators "make a variety of sounds as they cool, defrost, and circulate air."
The compressor also runs much more of the day than most owners expect. GE says "Refrigerators and Freezers have compressors that are designed to run 80% to 90% of the time", and that in "an extremely hot, humid area" or a heat wave "the run time may approach 100%." A hum that seems to go on forever is not, on its own, a fault.
Two things make the same sounds easier to notice. LG says normal sounds "may seem louder at night or early in the morning because there is less background noise." Sub-Zero says noises "may be more pronounced in a home with an open concept, or at night." If your kitchen is open to the living room, see our page on planning a quiet open-plan kitchen.
A new fridge can also sound unlike the one it replaced. Whirlpool warns that "Your new Whirlpool refrigerator will probably make different sounds or noises than your previous refrigerator." Frigidaire says "Modern, high efficiency compressors operate much faster than older models." Fisher & Paykel's US user guide for its RF203Q models says its ActiveSmart features "can produce sounds that may be different from your old refrigerator."
The sounds makers call normal
Humming and buzzing from the compressor and fans
Whirlpool: "A low, steady hum is common, especially after the doors have been opened." Samsung says the compressor "sounds just like a quiet engine or motor" and that it "will start up, run at low or high speed (and can change speeds), might make some clicking as it operates, and maybe sputter a bit as the fan slows to a stop."
LG says frequent door openings or hot food can make the motors "run faster and sound louder", and that "The motor speed and sound will naturally decrease once the refrigerator reaches the set temperature." Whirlpool gives the only time frame: "After adding warm groceries, allow up to 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize before evaluating noise."
The fan you hear may not be the one you think. Sub-Zero says "It is possible condenser fan motor noise is mistaken for compressor noise", and that on some of its older models the condenser fan motor "runs continuously", even with the thermostat turned off.
A high-pitched whine or pulsing
Whirlpool and Sub-Zero both tie this to variable-speed compressors. Whirlpool says that on high-efficiency, variable-speed models "the compressor may produce a short, high-pitched tone as speed changes", and that "A faint whistle after the compressor stops can also be normal as refrigerant pressures balance".
Sub-Zero says its "variable speed compressor always starts at high speed, then will slow down after approximately 5 minutes", that "On high speed, the compressor may emit a high pitched whining sound. This is normal", and that "Replacing the compressor with another variable speed compressor will not eliminate this sound." It also concedes that "Some people are more sensitive to the pitch some compressor speeds create." Whirlpool draws the limit: "Normal high-pitched sounds are typically brief, soft, and repeat with regular operation, such as cycling, door openings, or defrosting."
Clicking, ticking and the odd chirp
Clicks are switches. GE says "A click can be heard when the temperature control unit turns the fridge on and off" and that a "clicking/tic-tock noise can be heard when the defrost timer switches on and off." Whirlpool: "A single click can occur when the compressor starts or stops." After a power cut, GE says repeated clicking "comes from the compressor trying to re-start itself. The noise could last for 3 to 5 minutes."
LG describes a clatter from its 3-way valve that "may occur for about seven seconds once a day, or for about three seconds every hour." GE has the most unexpected entry on any list: "A chirping/barking/woof/howl sound can sometimes be heard as the damper door opens/closes."
Gurgling, bubbling and running water
Most of this is refrigerant. Samsung: "Refrigerant moving through the cooling system changes from liquid to gas and back again. This makes a gurgling or bubbling sound." Fisher & Paykel calls it a "Running water sound" and says "This is the liquid refrigerant in the system and can be heard as a boiling or gurgling noise." GE says "A boiling, gurgling, or knocking sound can be heard when the unit is running."
Some gurgles are water. Whirlpool says "defrost water flowing to the drain pan can create gentle gurgles or trickling sounds." GE describes a gurgle in the door "just after the door is closed because of the water in the drain tube trap area", which "can last several seconds." Sub-Zero names "a partially plugged drain tube, water drainage during the defrost cycle, or evaporator operation" and says "Such noises are usually considered normal operation."
Cracking, popping and snapping
This is plastic and metal changing size with temperature. Whirlpool says the inside walls "may cause a popping or cracking noise, especially as the refrigerator cools down for the first time or defrosts." Samsung says it "is much more common in new refrigerators as they acclimate to their new home's humidity and temperature levels" and "typically fades with time." LG compares it to "ice cracking as it melts."
Samsung is the only maker we read that says how loud it should be: "comparable to placing ice cubes in a warm drink, or the sound of Rice Krispies." GE, Frigidaire and Fisher & Paykel connect popping to the defrost cycle.
Whooshing, blowing and a hiss at the door
Two different things make this sound. The first is the fans. Whirlpool: "Evaporator and condenser fans circulate air. A soft airflow sound helps maintain even cooling across compartments." Samsung calls blowing and whistling from the circulation fans "rare, but normal", and says moving the fridge an inch or so, with 2 inches of clearance on the top, sides and back, can sometimes reduce it.
The second is the door. LG says warm air from an open door "changes the internal pressure", which causes "air to escape through the drain tube." Sub-Zero says the whoosh on closing "is simply air equalizing through the drain lines." Fisher & Paykel blames a hiss after closing the freezer door on "the pressure difference" between the warm air let in and the air outside. GE adds that a new door may "whistle or squeak" because the gasket seals tightly, and that "This noise will stop in a few days once the gasket becomes more pliable."
Defrost: sizzling, hissing and dripping
Whirlpool: "A sizzling or hissing noise could be caused by water dripping onto the defrost heater during the defrost cycle." Samsung, Frigidaire, GE and LG say the same, and Sub-Zero says "moisture on or near a defrost heater can cause a sizzling or crackling noise." GE adds the drip that follows: "A drip may be heard when the defrost water is dripping into the drain pan beneath the refrigerator."
None of the support pages or manuals we quote says how often defrost runs or how long a cycle lasts, so a sizzle at an odd hour cannot be checked against a published schedule.
The ice maker and the water valve
If your fridge makes ice, expect a second set of sounds. Fisher & Paykel says a first-time owner "will hear occasional sounds that may be unfamiliar", and lists them:
- Motor operation (low humming)
- Running water as the ice maker and/or water tank fills
- Water valve opening and closing (hissing sound)
- Ice being loosened from the ice moulding tray (cracking)
- Ice dropping into bin (clunking)
GE says "The icemaker will make a loud noise when cubes are dropped into the ice storage bucket", and Samsung says it "sounds a lot like building blocks tumbling onto a wooden table." Sub-Zero says ice maker and water valve noises "may be heard every 2-3 hours" on average, and that "A banging noise may be heard when the water valve shuts."
The valve buzz is normal while the ice maker fills. Frigidaire: "You may hear a buzzing sound as the water valve opens to fill the ice maker during each cycle." Samsung says the fill will be "louder if water pressure is too high." At the dispenser, Samsung says the ice maker "can produce a grinding noise when ice is dispensed, especially when crushed ice is selected", and GE says buzzing after getting water "should not last longer than 7 seconds after you stop using the dispenser."
Thumping and hammering come from the water line. Whirlpool says "A thumping or hammering noise may be caused by the water line during a fill cycle" and calls it "part of normal operation." GE says the louder version, water hammer, is "caused by high water pressure in the house water supply line connected into the refrigerator", a plumbing condition rather than a fridge fault. Whirlpool says chattering while dispensing water "is common and often harmless", usually from pressure changes or flow restrictions at the inlet valve.
Where the makers disagree, or say nothing
Rattling sits on both sides of the line. Whirlpool lists "Flow of refrigerant through the cooling system" as one cause, and Sub-Zero counts rattling from the compressor area as normal. Liebherr calls rattling from valves normal but classes "Clattering" from objects inside the fridge, and "Vibration" from an unsuitable installation, as an "Error noise".
Banging is similar. Sub-Zero says banging from the compressor area is "considered normal". Samsung says a thumping or knocking sound that is "consistent and very loud (and not the sound of ice falling in the bucket)" needs a service request.
Frost on the fan gets two answers. LG says to empty the fridge, unplug it and leave the doors open until the frost melts, which "may take about 24 hours in the summer or up to three days in the winter", with service only if the problem returns. Samsung says a manual defrost will clear the noise, "but only service will correct the original cause", and recommends service from the start.
Condenser cleaning splits by design. GE says "Most refrigerators manufactured since the year 2001 have condenser coils in a location that does not require them to be cleaned." Sub-Zero says to clean the condenser "every six to twelve months". Whirlpool says to vacuum the coils "If your model has accessible condenser coils", and ENERGY STAR says to keep them clean "if you have an older model."
None of the makers gives a decibel limit for a normal sound. Samsung's line that noises from the ice maker or compressor "should never get so loud that it's interrupting conversation" is the nearest any of them comes to a test you can use at home.
The sounds makers say need service
A fan hitting ice or something else
This is the clearest warning across brands. Samsung lists "Fan hitting ice (and stops when door is opened)" and says to request service. GE: "If a sound is coming from the freezer that sounds like a fan blade is hitting something, it is not normal". LG says continuous tapping or rattling can mean "Thick frost may have built up around the fan, or a foreign object might be touching the fan."
Under the fridge, GE describes "A sound coming from underneath (like a playing card hitting bicycle spokes)", which can mean something is hitting the condenser fan on models without its NeverClean condenser. You can remove a loose obstruction after unplugging the fridge, GE says, but if it is "a large rubber strip, this will require service", because that strip directs airflow and must go back correctly.
A compressor or fan motor that is unusually loud
LG lists "Abnormal compressor noise (Rattling, drilling)" and a faulty fan motor's "Loud whirring". It says that if the fridge "is still cooling normally, the sound may be temporary", but to contact support if the noise persists or cooling suffers. Samsung applies one test to almost every sound on its list: if it is "very loud", request service.
A noise that is new, or keeps getting louder
Sub-Zero says "If a noise is new, gets louder over time, or does not go away, service may be needed." GE says a tapping sound after defrost is normal, but on "an older refrigerator or a newly occurring noise" it may need service. If the whole fridge simply seems louder than it was, see why appliances get louder.
A noise with another symptom, or one on no list
Sub-Zero says "If any burning odor or other unusual symptoms accompany this noise, contact Factory Certified Service", and lists "Food spoilage" and "Elevated unit temperatures" among the signs of a compressor running too much. GE closes its list with "Any other sounds may require a service technician for diagnosis." Frigidaire says that for "units installed within the past 30 days", the installer should resolve it.
What to check before you call
Find where the sound comes from. Sub-Zero's method is to open all the doors: if the noise stops, it is probably a fan. A noise that returns when only the freezer door is closed points to the freezer evaporator fan motor, which Sub-Zero says needs service. LG warns that moving or levelling a fridge takes "two or more people".
Check that it sits level and solid. Whirlpool says to "Place a bubble level on the cabinet top" and adjust the front legs "until the doors close smoothly and the unit is stable." Samsung says the levelling legs "should be in full contact with the floor and the wheels shouldn't be touching the floor at all." Bosch's UK support page says a fridge that "is not standing level" may have operating noises that are "louder than normal."
Look on top, behind and inside. Whirlpool says to inspect "items that may be sitting on top of the refrigerator cabinet, which could vibrate." Samsung: "Something behind the fridge might be rattling against it. Move it out an inch to see if that stops the noise." Fisher & Paykel lists "Bottles or jars rattling on shelves" among its causes.
Give it room. LG says to leave "enough clearance from walls and cabinets", and ENERGY STAR says to "Leave a few inches between the wall and the refrigerator or cooler". Your manual gives the figure for your model.
Turn the ice maker off if there is no water line. Samsung says this avoids the noise and "damage to your refrigerator", and GE, Whirlpool and Sub-Zero give the same instruction. If water is connected and the fill buzzes loudly, Whirlpool says to check that "the line is not kinked, and the water filter is correctly installed and not overdue for replacement." Samsung says you can turn the water pressure down "as long as you can still dispense 3/4 cup in under 10 seconds, which is the minimum pressure required."
Clean the condenser if yours needs it, with the fridge unplugged. ENERGY STAR says to "Read the user’s manual to learn how to safely clean coils."
Check for modes that run the fridge harder. Bosch's B36CT manual says "When Super cooling is switched on, increased noise may occur", and Liebherr's says that with SuperCool or PartyMode on, "the operating noise of the appliance may be temporarily louder".
If you defrost by hand, do it slowly. Samsung warns "DO NOT USE A HAIR DRYER or any other heat source on the refrigerator to speed up defrosting, as this WILL damage the refrigerator."
If you are choosing a quieter refrigerator
A quieter fridge still makes these sounds, only less loudly in the maker's own test. Before comparing those figures, read our dBA explainer and check the decibel chart. For a full-size fridge, start with our quietest refrigerators and quietest French door refrigerators guides, or the Liebherr refrigerator decibel ratings if you are looking at that brand. For a bedroom, office or dorm, see the quietest mini fridges, and if you turn off the built-in ice maker and still want ice, see our countertop ice maker guide.
Nothing on this page comes from our own listening or testing. We have not measured, recorded or repaired any of these refrigerators; each sound, cause and remedy is the maker's own, taken from the support pages and manuals listed below with the conditions the maker attaches.
